Old fashioned cinnamon ornaments are handmade holiday decorations formed from a simple dough of ground cinnamon and applesauce, rolled out, cut into shapes, and dried until rigid. They’ve graced Christmas trees since the mid-20th century, releasing a warm spice scent every time the box comes down from storage. The frustration most crafters hit is cracking, crumbling, or a dough that refuses to cooperate.
This walkthrough covers the exact ratios, drying methods, troubleshooting fixes, and finishing techniques that produce sturdy, fragrant results on your first attempt.
The Classic Dough and Why Ratios Matter
Two parts ground cinnamon to one part applesauce. That’s the backbone of every successful batch, and it’s been the standard since these spiced dough ornaments first appeared in American holiday craft books around the 1950s. The ratio works because cinnamon provides structure and rigidity while applesauce acts as a natural binder, creating a pliable mass that holds its shape once dried.
Consistency is where most batches go wrong. The dough should feel like firm playdough: smooth enough to roll without sticking to your hands, dense enough to hold a cookie cutter’s edge without crumbling at the borders. Press your thumb into it. A slight indentation that springs back slowly means you’re in the right range. Sticky dough needs more cinnamon. Crumbly dough needs a teaspoon of applesauce at a time.
Adjusting for Real-World Variables
Humidity, cinnamon brand, and applesauce thickness all shift the working ratio. Store-bought applesauce varies in water content; homemade versions tend to be thicker. Cinnamon ground from cassia bark absorbs moisture differently than Ceylon cinnamon. Start with ¾ cup applesauce per 1½ cups cinnamon, then adjust in small increments until the texture is right.
For added flexibility during drying, mix in one tablespoon of white school glue per cup of dough. The glue creates a polymer network that reduces brittleness without affecting scent. To boost fragrance, add 5–8 drops of cinnamon bark essential oil or a half-teaspoon of ground clove or nutmeg per batch. Stir these additions in before the dough fully comes together so they distribute evenly.
Shaping, Cutting, and Preparing for the Drying Stage
Roll the dough to exactly ¼ inch thick. Thinner pieces dry faster but crack and snap during handling. Thicker pieces take days longer to dry and warp as the outer layer hardens before the interior moisture escapes. A pair of wooden dowels or chopsticks placed on either side of the dough acts as a rolling guide, keeping thickness uniform across the entire sheet.
Cut shapes with sturdy cookie cutters that avoid thin limbs, narrow points, or intricate interior details. Stars with slender tips, snowflakes with delicate arms, and gingerbread figures with outstretched arms all break at their thinnest sections during drying. Round shapes, hearts, bells, and simple trees hold up far better. Press the cutter straight down without twisting to keep edges clean.
Punching the Hanging Hole
Use a drinking straw or a wooden skewer to punch the hole immediately after cutting, while the dough is still soft. Position it at least ¼ inch from the top edge; closer placement creates a weak point that snaps under the weight of ribbon. A hole roughly ⅛ inch in diameter accommodates most ribbon and twine without weakening the ornament’s structure.
Transferring Without Distortion
Slide a thin spatula or flexible card under each cut shape and lift it onto a parchment paper-lined baking sheet or cardboard square. Dragging shapes across the work surface stretches and warps them. Work on the parchment itself so you can peel away excess dough around the shapes rather than moving each piece individually.
Tip: Roll and cut directly on parchment paper. You eliminate the transfer step entirely and reduce distortion to near zero.
Air Drying Versus Oven Drying Versus Dehydrator
The drying method you choose determines your crack rate, total time investment, and how many ornaments you can process at once. Each approach trades speed against risk, and the right choice depends on your climate, batch size, and patience level.
| Method | Time Range | Crack Risk | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Air drying | 3–7 days | Low to moderate | Low-humidity climates, small batches |
| Oven at 200°F | 2–4 hours | Moderate to high | Quick turnaround, experienced crafters |
| Dehydrator at 135°F | 4–8 hours | Lowest | Large batches, humid environments |
Air Drying Details
Place ornaments on a flat, rigid surface in a room with good airflow and low humidity. Flip each piece every 12 hours so both sides dry at the same rate. Skipping the flip schedule is the single most common cause of warping in air-dried batches. A ceiling fan on low or an open window in dry weather accelerates the process without introducing the uneven heat that causes cracks.
Oven Drying Details
Set the oven to 200°F and prop the door open slightly with a wooden spoon to allow moisture to escape. Check ornaments every 30 minutes. Temperatures above 225°F cause the surface to harden while interior moisture expands, splitting the ornament from the inside. Oven drying works best for pieces no thicker than ¼ inch.
Dehydrator Method
A food dehydrator set to 135°F provides gentle, even airflow on all sides simultaneously. This produces the lowest crack rate of any method because moisture leaves the dough gradually and uniformly. Arrange ornaments in a single layer on the trays without overlapping. Larger batches benefit most from this approach since you can stack multiple trays and process 20–30 ornaments in one session.
Warning: Never dry cinnamon dough ornaments near a radiator, fireplace, or in direct sunlight. Rapid, uneven heat is the fastest path to a cracked batch.
Troubleshooting Cracks, Crumbles, and Warping
Cracks form when the outer surface dries and contracts faster than the interior. The result is a visible split, usually along the thinnest section of the shape or near the hanging hole. Three causes account for nearly every failure: drying too fast, rolling too thin, or skipping the flip schedule during air drying.
Fixing Dough Mid-Mix
Sticky dough that clings to your rolling pin needs cinnamon added one tablespoon at a time, kneaded in fully before adding more. Dry, crumbly dough that cracks at the edges when you press it needs applesauce added one teaspoon at a time. The goal is a smooth, slightly tacky surface that releases cleanly from your fingers without leaving residue behind.
Repairing Minor Cracks
Mix a small amount of cinnamon and applesauce into a thick paste. Press it into the crack with your fingertip while the ornament is still slightly damp, then smooth the surface. The paste bonds with the existing dough as it dries, making the repair nearly invisible. Wait until the ornament is fully dry before attempting this fix, and the paste will sit on the surface rather than bonding.
Preventing Warping
Warping happens when one side of the ornament dries faster than the other, causing the piece to curl. Flat, rigid drying surfaces prevent this. Cardboard squares, ceramic tiles, or wooden boards all work. Rotate each ornament 180 degrees and flip it every 12 hours. In humid climates, place a small fan nearby to keep air moving without applying direct heat.
- Crack near the hole: The hole was punched too close to the edge. Move it at least ¼ inch inward on your next batch.
- Surface crazing: Oven temperature was too high or fluctuated. Use an oven thermometer to verify 200°F.
- Edges crumbling: The dough was too dry when cut. Add moisture before rolling next time.
- Cupping or curling: One side dried faster. Flip more frequently and use a rigid, flat surface.
- Soft center after drying: The piece was too thick or drying time was too short. Return it to the drying environment for another 24 hours.
Finishing Touches That Elevate the Look
Once your ornaments are fully dry and rigid, fine-grit sandpaper (220 grit or higher) smooths rough edges and gives each piece a clean, professional silhouette. Sand gently in one direction along the edges rather than scrubbing back and forth, which can create uneven surfaces or chip thin sections.
Sealing Options and Trade-Offs
Mod Podge applied in a thin coat gives a matte or satin finish and protects the surface from moisture and handling. Clear varnish provides a harder, glossier shell. Both sealants reduce the natural spice scent significantly because they trap the aromatic oils inside the dough. Leaving ornaments unsealed preserves the full cinnamon fragrance but makes them more vulnerable to humidity and fingerprints.
A practical middle ground: seal only the front face and leave the back unsealed so scent continues to release.
Decorating Without Overwhelming the Texture
Acrylic paint in metallic gold or copper looks striking against the dark cinnamon surface. Gold leaf applied with a thin layer of Mod Podge as adhesive gives a vintage, gilded appearance. Stamped designs using acrylic ink and rubber stamps add pattern without hiding the natural texture. Glitter works best when applied sparingly along edges rather than coating the entire surface.
Attaching Hanging Hardware
Thread a 6-inch length of ribbon, jute twine, or thin wire through the punched hole and tie a secure knot or loop. For heavier ornaments, double the ribbon and tie both ends together. Wire wrapped around the hole provides the strongest hold for pieces you plan to hang on a holiday garland or outdoor display. Avoid thin thread, which can saw through the dried dough over time.
Preserving Scent and Storing Between Seasons
Unsealed cinnamon ornaments release their natural fragrance for roughly 4–6 weeks after making them. Sealed pieces retain scent internally for years but project far less aroma into the room. Heat, direct sunlight, and airflow all accelerate scent fading by volatilizing the aromatic compounds faster. Store ornaments away from these elements to slow the process.
Refreshing Fragrance Year Over Year
Each holiday season, apply one drop of cinnamon bark essential oil to the back of each ornament using a cotton swab. The oil absorbs into the unsealed surface and restores the warm spice scent without affecting the decorated front. This single step keeps vintage cinnamon ornaments smelling as though they were made yesterday, even after several years of storage.
Storage Method for Longevity
Wrap each ornament individually in acid-free tissue paper to prevent surface scratches and chemical reactions that can discolor the dough over time. Layer them flat in an airtight plastic or glass container. Store the container in a cool, dark closet away from heat sources and direct sunlight. Well-made ornaments stored this way last five years or longer without cracking, fading, or losing structural integrity.
For gifting or display beyond the tree, bundle three or four ornaments together with a ribbon loop to create a small cluster suitable for a mantel arrangement or a natural tree decorations theme. The same storage principles apply: flat, separated, sealed from air and light.
Putting It Together
The difference between a cracked, crumbly batch and a set of smooth, fragrant old fashioned cinnamon ornaments comes down to three decisions: getting the dough consistency right before you roll, choosing a drying method matched to your climate and batch size, and flipping on schedule. Master those three points and the rest is finishing and personal style. The scent alone makes the effort worthwhile for seasons to come.
FAQ
How do you make old fashioned cinnamon ornaments?
Mix two parts ground cinnamon with one part applesauce into a firm dough, roll it to ¼ inch thick, cut shapes with cookie cutters, punch a hanging hole with a straw, and air dry for 3–7 days or bake at 200°F for 2–4 hours.
How long do cinnamon ornaments take to dry?
Air drying takes 3–7 days depending on humidity and thickness. Oven drying at 200°F takes 2–4 hours. A dehydrator at 135°F takes 4–8 hours and produces the most even results with the fewest cracks.
Do cinnamon ornaments smell?
Yes. Unsealed ornaments release a natural warm spice scent for 4–6 weeks after making. The fragrance fades gradually but can be refreshed each year with a drop of cinnamon bark essential oil applied to the back of the piece.
How do you keep cinnamon ornaments from cracking?
Roll dough to ¼ inch thick, dry slowly at low temperatures, flip ornaments every 12 hours during air drying, and avoid placing them near direct heat sources. Adding a tablespoon of white glue per cup of dough also reduces brittleness.
Can you make cinnamon ornaments without applesauce?
White school glue can replace applesauce as a binder, producing a smoother dough that dries harder and cracks less. The trade-off is a weaker natural scent, since applesauce contributes a subtle fruity undertone to the overall fragrance.
How long do homemade cinnamon ornaments last?
With proper storage in an airtight container with acid-free tissue between layers, kept away from heat and sunlight, well-made ornaments last five or more years. Gentle handling during hanging and storage prevents most breakage.
